Modeling Equipment
Modeling Equipment?
Posted By: Dave Pluth <>
Date: Thursday, 29 October 1998, at 11:24 a.m.
Hi all,
Just curious as to what types of modeling equipment that you use? Airbrush, compressor (or other air source) etc. Also, what types of paint and filler does everyone use, and of course, why?
Re: Modeling Equipment?
Posted By: Brandon Wood <>
Date: Thursday, 29 October 1998, at 2:24 p.m.
In Response To: Modeling Equipment? (Dave Pluth)
For painting, I have a Badger 150 double action. My air source is an old propane tank(like the ones for bar-b-q grills)that I have modified. It holds around 100psi and with the regulator and moisture trap, provides me with a nice quiet steady stream of air. I use Superjet as a filler b/c it is quick and I have gotten used to working with it.
I still use Model Master enamels for painting, usually mixing them to get the "color" I like. For a natural metal finish, I prefer SNJ. The "toughness" is superior to any other I have used.
Re: Modeling Equipment?
Posted By: Tom Matlosz <>
Date: Thursday, 29 October 1998, at 5:12 p.m.
In Response To: Modeling Equipment? (Dave Pluth)
I use a Badger single action external mix airbrush with a Craftsman compressor from Sears. I use Gap Filling Super Glue for filling seam. After I get it where I want it, a drop of accelerator latter, I'm sanding right now. I tried filler putties but don't like them. The only problem with the super glue technique is it's impossible to scribe into it, for that I'd use one of the available putties.
Hope you liked the N1K2 and A6M photos I sent last week. I haven't received any responses to my queries I posted on the IJN aircraft bulletin board last week.
Hope this helps you. My TBD-1 is coming along, although I'm still scraping and scribing panel lines on the old Monogram kit. On to the IJN aircraft next year...
Tom Matlosz
Re: Modeling Equipment?
Posted By: Hiroyuki Takeuchi <>
Date: Thursday, 29 October 1998, at 10:13 p.m.
In Response To: Modeling Equipment? (Dave Pluth)
I use a Tamiya double action airbrush with a Tamiya compressor, which is probably only for the Japanese domestic market.
Tamiya cement (standard and thin-type), Tamiya putty (normal, two-part poly-putty, and two-part epoxy), and Humbrol ClearFix for gluing canopies and making small windows. I tried using super glue as fillers but I find them hard to sand don't use them very often.
Gunze Mr. Color for basic painting because they dry fast, hold on to plastic very well, and is not harmed by enamel or water acrylic thinners. On this base, I use Tamiya enamels for marking panel lines, wash, and general weathering. This combination is probably the most popular among Japanese modelers. Pastels are also used for weathering.
One of the things I find very useful is 3M Parafilm for masking, which is hard to find here so I mail order from the US. I have heard about Future floor polish being very useful, but I have not been able to find it, or similar products here. If they are that good, I'm going to have to ask my colleague who's going on a trip to New York next week to get a bottle. (I know I'll get a very strange look!)
Re: Modeling Equipment?
Posted By: Terry Garrard <>
Date: Friday, 30 October 1998, at 2:53 p.m.
In Response To: Modeling Equipment? (Dave Pluth)
I use a Paasche VL double action that I almost threw away until one day I finally learned how to use it. Now my old Badger is rusting over in the corner. Almost exclusively I use Floquil, which, much to my dismay, is being eliminated by Testors. For the most part I think Floquil is superior to ModelMaster in drying time, consistency, and color accuracy. Perhaps nearest in quality to Floquil is Humbrol, but I find their color numbering system confusing and I really hate those tins. For gap filling I prefer super glue. As a medium, it's not as fragile as putty. I use Zap a Gap and haven't experienced any difficulty scribing.
Re: Modeling Equipment?
Posted By: Mike Quan <>
Date: Friday, 30 October 1998, at 10:38 p.m.
In Response To: Modeling Equipment? (Dave Pluth)
Hi All! I am still using a Binks Wren single action airbrush I bought second hand in 1970 because I am used to it, I guess! Supplying air to it is an "Air Force" silent compressor with one-liter tank and adjustable regulator. It is nice and quiet and helps me concentrate on the job at hand. I use many different paints, but probably my current favorite is Aeromaster enamels. I have tried their acrylics and cannot get them to apply smoothly. I also like Floquil Railroad colors and Humbrol. For filler, there has been nothing overall (to me) that beats the 3M acrylic fillers made for automotive spot puttying. There are various colors and consistencies - the best is 'acryl-blue' IMHO. It sands to a glass smooth surface yet featheredges on a par with superglue. SG is hard to control on a model in my experience, although the speed is unmatched.
Re: Modeling Equipment?
Posted By: Rob Graham <>
Date: Sunday, 1 November 1998, at 10:50 p.m.
In Response To: Modeling Equipment? (Dave Pluth)
Hi all:
I find it interesting to read everyone's comments.
I use CA and accelerator (Great Planes is my first choice so far) to fill gaps, files to smooth the CA, and sandpaper and cloth and eventually just plain paper to polish the plastic.
I have a Badger air compressor, and a Binks Wren and a Badger single action airbrush.
I use the paint du jour, but have found I prefer acrylics BY FAR when painting by brush. Enamels are best through the airbrush and when dry brushing.
I use Testors Metalizer from the spray cans, and have found good soft Q-Tips work well for light metalizing.
I use X-Acto knives, a Bare Metal Foil scribe, Testors liquid cement, Bare Metal Foil, and a host of other things for small details. I experiment with every model (I'm not a pro...) and see what I can do. I like the new Testors Acryl paints as much as the Gunze, Tamiya, and other acrylics, and have had luck mixing all brands. I have had palettes of dried acrylics I have "revived" with liquid cement.
These are some of my experiments... :^)
Re: Modeling Equipment?
Posted By: Bert Ohta <>
Date: Tuesday, 3 November 1998, at 12:59 a.m.
In Response To: Modeling Equipment? (Dave Pluth)
Love my Iwata Eclipse air brush, Badger 180 air compressor and flexible shaft Sears dremel tool
Tools i cant do without: Waldron subminiature punch set and regular punch set, Micromesh sand cloths (1500-12000 grit), tungsten tip scriber and a number of other tools.
Re: Modeling Equipment?
Posted By: Eric McCann <>
Date: Friday, 20 November 1998, at 1:43 p.m.
In Response To: Modeling Equipment? (Dave Pluth)
Airbrush - Various Testors/Aztek brushes (single and double action, from a "spray gun" to a regular single action - rarely used now - to a double action, which is a little sloppy but also not the top of the line brush... going to have to try it out before paying $100 for it.)
Paints - whatever line I can get my colors in. I don't like mixing paints... but use MM enamels, and am playing with (but am not fond of) their acryl line. I tend to prefer acrylics, Gunze most of all, followed by Tamiya.
Putty - Squadron White, followed by Dr. Microtools (rarely used any more...)
Glue - Testors. (Hey, it's easy to get, and does a decent job. ) Both their squeeze bottle - seems thicker than pure "liquid" but thinner than the tube stuff - and their clear part cement, though I'm not fond of the second. It just doesn't seem all that strong.
Re: Modeling Equipment?
Posted By: Steven Murray <>
Date: Sunday, 29 November 1998, at 2:44 p.m.
In Response To: Modeling Equipment? (Dave Pluth)
I use a Testors double-action airbrush. I used to attach it to canned air cans, but after going through an entire can for one modeling project, I opted for a Sears air compressor typically used for tires/footballs etc.
I use ModelMaster paints almost exclusively now. I used to use Polly Scale paints (and I do still use their weathering paints), but I could never get the right mixture of paint/thinner to allow the paint to run through the nozzles without clogging up.
Re: Modeling Equipment?
Posted By: Bert Ohta <>
Date: Sunday, 20 December 1998, at 12:09 a.m.
In Response To: Re: Modeling Equipment? (Tom Matlosz)
Just wanted to let you know superglue seams can be scribed. Just don’t use the scraper type scriber (like the Squadron scriber). Try the needlepoint type scriber to create panel lines. I have two types that I use for
different effects. One I bought from an arts supply store, which is a simple hardened tip, mounted to a simple wood pencil shaped handle. I like it because it's light and easy to handle. Make sure the tip is a hardened steel tip. This one I use to make shallow panel lines. I use a tungsten carbide tipped scriber for deeper lines (Micromark 1-800-225-1066 sells it).
The trick is to use embossing label tape to guide the scriber. Make a real light passes over the superglue + plastic seam each time to get a uniform panel line through both plastic and superglue surfaces. If you try that with a scraper type scriber, it won’t work because the scriber will snag over the superglue surface because its a harder plastic. This will cause an uneven panel line that’s thicker on the plastic surface and thinner on the superglue part of the seam. Needle type scribers work though, as long as the tip is HARD and the passes you make are light are light. Oh, and sewing needles don’t work very well. Thought I’d save you the trouble.
Hope this helps.
I like to pass on techniques I learned by hours of trial and error. I like the idea that someone else won’t have to reinvent the wheel.
Happy modeling
Bert Ohta
New scribing, for me...
Posted By: Rob Graham <>
Date: Wednesday, 24 February 1999, at 7:56 p.m.
Hi, all.
I was at The War Room in Atlanta, and the guys there recommended the Hasegawa Tritools scribing saws. The panel lines I saw were PERFECT. They're hard to find, but HLJ has them. They said to get the templates, too.
Air Compressor Question
Posted By: Steve Contella <>
Date: Tuesday, 8 August 2000, at 8:16 a.m.
What type of water separators do you have on your compressors? Do most of you have special airbrush compressors or just regular shop type compressors?
Posted By: Roachie <>
Date: Wednesday, 9 August 2000, at 9:34 p.m.
There are a number of considerations you need to look at with regard to water traps. Firstly, I have a Holding CP103 that has an airtank and auto cut off unit. Try and obtain a good quality w/t with regulator, one where the needle on the regulator remains steady and doesn't oscillate...usually a way to tell a good one from a not-so-good one. Check there is an IN/OUT stamping on the water trap so that you connect it correctly to the compressor. At this stage you may even consider putting on a tee-piece so that you have two airbrushes able to be connected - I use an Aztek for all my work and my trusty old Badger 200 is now an air hose for blasting dust etc. The Holding is a reliable and quiet running item and importantly, there are spare parts available should something go amiss after so many years of good service. I use an SMC Water trap/Regulator - here in Oz. HTH
Date: Friday, 11 August 2000, at 3:04 p.m.
Steve, I've seen compressors with the water trap attached right to the compressor, but as a rule most get pretty hot after awhile and for most traps to be effective as told to me by a friend who is a professional auto painter, the trap needs to be hooked up at least 20 feet from the compressor so the heated air can travel far enough for any moisture to condense into droplets allowing the trap to do what it was designed for. I use this system on all of my compressors and I never have water problems, which can ruin a good paint job and your day to boot.
Posted By: Roachie <>
Date: Saturday, 12 August 2000, at 5:41 a.m.
I have not experienced, nor heard of (until the previous posting) water traps becoming hot and leading to a build-up of condensation. A requirement to have (some) 20ft between compressor and water trap is a bit odd.... and impractical I would think. The Holding Compressor which I have, and others used by mates of mine are what I would call designed to operate with the water trap attached close to, or onto the outlet valve of the compressor. Water traps I am familiar with also have a vent at the base to expel any moisture build-up. Personally, I have never had a problem with corrupted air - I believe the length of air hose and the quality of the water trap are sufficient to alleviate/ minimize any potential problem. I would certainly agree that the length of hose from a water trap to the compressor outlet would greatly reduce any moisture problem - even 'x' number of feet of coiled hose - again there is the matter of how your compressor is hooked up, the manner in which the airbrush hose from the water trap leads to the spray booth/ workbench - for instance I have a hole in my bench top where the airhose emerges from the water trap/compressor on the floor at my feet - I control off/on switches and valves with my feet! How does that all read? Of course, to adjust psi, then it's hands and knees and a bit of a ‘crank’...
Regards - hope this of some help....
Date: Saturday, 12 August 2000, at 4:36 p.m.
I should have worded my message a little better! I meant most compressors get hot after a while, not the water trap. As it was explained to me, once an air compressor begins to run hot the heated air needs distance to cool down so any moisture present in the lines will condense into droplets, otherwise it will be in a steamy state and the trap cannot effectively remove all the moisture. I have industrial type air compressors that run pretty warm after a while and I have this type of trap hookup on all of them. It might sound like overkill, but I do most of my airbrushing in a frequently damp basement and I always had water problems until I went to this system. Maybe some of the high dollar compressors designed specifically for airbrushing aren't quite the water pumps that mine are. I hope this clears up any confusion I may have caused, and all I can say is it works for me. LATER, RICK
Posted By: Jeff McGuire <>
Date: Wednesday, 9 August 2000, at 8:59 p.m.
I have a Black and Decker Air station. It's okay but I had to drill a hole in the brass connecting fitting because it created too much pressure. It also is going to make me deaf one of these days! I think pretty much any small compressor you get would be okay, but I'd try for one with some sort of pressure regulator.
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